Walking the Camino de Santiago

August 17

“I’m living the next 5 minutes
Like these are my last 5 minutes
’cause I know the next 5 minutes
May be all I have
And after the next 5 minutes
Turn into the last 5 minutes
I’m taking the next 5 minutes
And starting all over again” – SC Chapman

Woke up this morning a little later than I had planned. Having no A/C made it a bit hard to get to sleep. The proprietor did bring me an electric fan last night, (unsolicited) which was helpful. Since today was going to be a shorter walk approx 16.5KM, I figured it was okay to sleep in a little later. I mean, it’s my Camino, right? 🤷

As I walked out of the hotel this morning, I pulled out the directions handed to me by the proprietor the day before, and journeyed on the short trail back to the Camino’s path, which if you remember,I had failed to take yesterday. Most of that path took me through two small towns and along the main highway 😳, which gave me an opportunity to stop for a quick Cafe Com Liete (espresso and steamed milk) and a little snack before hitting the days longer trail.

Today was another beautiful walk with beautiful weather …once I was off the main highway. Eventually I hit a dirt path in a more remote area. I was fortunate to have the majority of the trail turn along the Tagus river, which made for a nice view for the majority of todays journey. A lot of this part of the trail is unshaded though, so I had full sun as a trade off for a rather flat terrain and a nice view. I had to make sure to drink plenty of water and stop occasionally to cool off when I did find shade.

Walking along the river again today it’s hard to find anything to complain about. Sure the sun was hot and by the end of my walk my ‘dogs were barking’, but there was just too much good to find much to complain about. It’s nice taking these first several days at a shorter pace. It gives me time to get my “legs” for the longer, steeper days ahead, and also gives me time to really take in my surroundings. I’m a morning person so I am sure my smiles and Bom Dia’s (Good Day) annoyed the heck out of those who are not. 😉

The path was virtually a straight line the majority of the day. Once I realized I was going to get into my destination city a lot earlier than I anticipated, I slowed down my pace and added a few more shade breaks in between.

On entering the town of Alhandra, the small town looked a lot like some of the Spanish ones we had seen last year, with a nice town square where it seemed many folks were chilling in the nice weather.

My destination today is the town of Vila Franca de Xira. This town stands at the edge of Portugal’s main wetland reserve. The town is most known for breeding fighting bulls. Just like Spain, they too conduct bullfights in Portugal. Via Franca even has its own ‘running of the bulls’. However, in Portugal, the bull is not harmed in the bullfight. Just out-tricked. I like that much better! Vila Franca is linked to the English crusaders who landed there en route to the Holy Land, originally naming it Cornogoa after Cornwall.

The Camino doesn’t cut through this town, but rather winds around it’s edge, so if you’re staying here, or even just want a snack, you have to veer off the trail and walk into town. This meant I needed to locate my hotel which was supposed to be at the edge of town. Turns out, it is at the edge of town….. the “other” edge (as you leave it)! Of course “Google maps” told me it would be another 4 miles to my hotel through town. I stopped myself this time, before I started to take that journey and thought through what that would mean ….walking 4 miles back to the trail tomorrow. I wondered if there was a faster route. So I went back to check my Camino App, which turned out to have a suggested cutoff from the trail that was way faster. Less than 1/4 mile. Whew!

Finally I made it to my hotel (which does have A/C) and my own bathroom. Hot and dusty from the trail, I was able to take a nice cool shower and clean up. I headed out to the supermarket next door and loaded up on snacks for tomorrow. It’s always a good idea to have food in your pack. You never know when a pack of almonds and a tomato will be required (Joke from last years walk). I’m just about to head downstairs to the hotels restaurant to find me some dinner. Another adventure awaits tomorrow.

My thoughts: This is definitely a different Camino experience walking alone. I mean that even when you walk alone on the Camino Frances, you’re not really ever alone. There is always another pilgrim on the trail to chat with. I’m certainly not complaining, it’s just different. I felt a little guilty not walking further today. I feel like I could have. But I’ve booked accommodations for the next three days, so I’ll stick with my plan to walk shorter routes and not overthink it. I think it is the smartest plan for me just starting out in the trail. Next week there is supposed to be a hot spell in the upper 90’s. I’m really hoping that does not come to pass, but I’m starting to think about what I will do if it’s that hot in the trail. Once I hit Porto (famous for Port wine) I will veer off to the coast at the Atlantic Ocean and the remainder of my journey will be along the ocean. Should be somewhat cooler. Each day I think about how fortunate I am on this trail. I mean, how many people can take the time to do this? Not many. Truly truly blessed 🙏🏻

Oh ….and if you read this to the end, say Happy Birthday to my Dad tomorrow! Happy Birthday Dad!🎉 Love you!