Walking the Camino de Santiago

August 27

(Because I’m happy)
Clap along if you feel like a room without a roof
(Because I’m happy)
Clap along if you feel like happiness is the truth
(Because I’m happy)
Clap along if you know what happiness is to you
(Because I’m happy)
Clap along if you feel like that’s what you wanna do – P Williams

As usual, I was up and on the trail early this morning before daylight. I agreed to meet Solange to hike the journey together again. Today would be a bit of a shorter distance, as there were no towns per se with any accommodations past the 13 mile mark, unless you wanted to walk a full 33 miles! Today would also likely be the last day Solange and I walk together. I plan to extend my journeys distances beginning tomorrow. Primarily because I feel like I could keep walking much further, and I have a goal to get to Porto. Porto’s another big landmark on this journey and once there, the trail will take a drastic turn to the coastal route, with the paths directly adjacent to beaches, cliffsides, and of course the Atlantic Ocean. I’ll follow that path all the way to Santiago de Compostela. Solange plans to take the Central Portugese route so I would not see her again until Santiago de Compostela.

The sky was crystal clear with the stars shining bright and the air chilly as we hit the trail. For the first time, I could see my breath in the early morning air. The heat from last week has certainly left us, leaving a much more pleasant climate for hiking through Portugal.

I slept fantastic in my ‘closed’ accommodations and woke up feeling refreshed, very positive about the day, and raring to go. The destination for us both today is the town of Rabacal. Rabacal is widely know for its cheese, named of course: Queijo Rabaçal. This semi-hard cheese is made of a mixture of two-thirds sheep milk and one third goat milk. It is supposed to possess a distinctive flavor due to the fact the sheep and goats of the Coimbra region graze heavily on a local species of thyme that grows abundantly in the pastures, lending a specific, intense flavor to their milk. I love cheese. So I can’t wait to try it. 😋

Solange let me know she was really hoping we would find a bar/cafe open in one of the small hamlets ahead of us. She needed a coffee (and I can always go for a coffee). Working against us is the early morning (most places don’t open until 9am) and the fact it’s Sunday. Which means many businesses are closed. But, just like the Camino, let’s just see what happens.

The path headed out of the town and down its cobblestone streets. In the distance ahead we could see the hillside that we both suspected we would be hiking over today to reach our destination.

As the sun began to paint the sky, it shined so beautifully on the eucalyptus forest path we were led through. You could smell the trees and the nice breeze made the smell of the eucalyptus even stronger. I swear the oxygen level is greater in these forests.

While I suspect todays journey would be another day of hiking up and down, I don’t think it will be nearly as exhausting as the upcoming two days will be, given what the elevation changes look like in my guide. So off we went onto the dirt trail in search of a town with coffee. 😉

Eventually the trail spilled out into the small town of Alvorge. An ancient town, rich in history, that still has some of its Roman roads in existence. The town was quiet and empty given it was only 7:30am on Sunday. Ahead in the distance however, I could see a cafe, with a woman outside of it sweeping. As we approached, I asked her if she was open… jackpot! She was! We would get our early morning coffee afterall. We both ordered a pastry from the cafe and had our coffee as we perused the trail guide for the day. Eventually we were joined by two cheery young people who had let us know they had been partying all night and had not yet slept. They too needed coffee. Both of them arrived by motorcycle. One of the gentlemen asked me where I was heading. When I told him Santiago de Compostela, he inquired in a surprised tone “by foot”? I nodded yes and then he said, “Here, take my motorcycle. You need it”. I laughed and thanked him and told him that sure would make it easier!

My thoughts: What a difference a day on the Camino makes. Today was a great hike, I had great company along the trail, the weather was perfect, and my accomodations delightful. I am truly blessed to be here and I know many who wish they had this opportunity. I don’t take any of it for granted. I’m happy…. 😁