Walking the Camino de Santiago

August 28 – Kittens, Puppies, and Faceplants

“I’ve been brought down to my knees
And I’ve been pushed way past the point of breaking
But I can take it
I’ll be back, back on my feet
This is far from over
You haven’t seen the last of me”- Cher

I got up early this morning and walked into the kitchen of the albergue to find coffee and snacks for the pilgrims. So nice! While having a quick coffee, I chatted with two men from Holland who had come in late last night. They were also walking the Camino. They were starting later this morning, so I threw my backpack on, finished my coffee, bid them both a Buen Camino, and headed out.

There was a definite chill in the air this morning, It felt good. I had planned for a long trek today (over 30km) on a trail that would have a lot of fairly steep hiking up the terrain. I felt ready for it as I feel I’m at the point of the Camino where I can walk those longer distances. Before I headed out, I sent a quick WhatsApp to Solange wishing her a Happy 63rd birthday today.

As I began to walk the trail, I had a response from Solange letting me know she had changed her plans and she would see me in Coimbra this afternoon. She had a problem with her reservation city for today, so decided she would make the longer trek to Coimbra just as I was doing. That was great news, so we agreed to meet for dinner to celebrate her birthday. She plans to have a rest day tomorrow in Coimbra but I will push on.

The trail today led back onto some pretty rocky terrain in wooded areas, as well as spilling into the occasional small village or hamlet. I put my headphones on and charged away, intent on making as much headway as possible as early as possible.

The countryside in this area of Portugal is so beautiful. Most residents are growing their own food and raising their own animals. So, as you walk by, you get greeted by either humans or animals.

As I continued on my journey this morning, I entered into the small hamlet of Fonte Coberta. No sooner did I begin hiking through the town then I came across a whole litter of little black kittens. Probably wild kittens, but that is common in these areas. You see cats (and sometimes dogs) everywhere.

As I turned a corner in the town, I could see a pack of dogs hanging out together. While I’ve never had any issue in these places with dogs, one of the pilgrims last night at my accommodations had informed he was bit by one. So l, for the first time, seeing at least six dogs together, got a little apprehensive. That all changed as I approached them and realized they were puppies! They all ran to me, jumping on my legs wanting me to pet and play with them. Their watchful mother sat at a distance closeby. I spent a couple minutes with the puppies and then moved forward on the trail.

Feeling good about kittens and puppies I cranked up the music on my iphone and charged along, already 7 miles in on my 20 mile journey. But then….. that all came to an abrupt stop. I tripped on a protruding boulder and propelled forward, falling on my knee, and then on my face. Because I was in a forward motion from the trip when I fell, the 23 pounds of my backpack pushed my upper half to the ground and I smacked my face and mouth on the rocks. Luckily, I had my mouth closed at the time, or I am certain I would have broken a tooth. Instead, my tooth had cut into my inner upper lip causing it to bleed on the inside. Once I composed myself, cleaned the blood off my face, and realized I had a few cuts and bruises, but nothing serious, I dusted myself off, told the Camino “you won’t get rid of me that easily” and continued on my route. just a little worse for the wear.

When things like this happen, some people may feel defeated, but for me it just amped me up and got me determined to get to my finish point for the day. No way was I letting a fall like that get the best of me.

The journey was long today. Eventually I could see Coimbra in the distance and increased my pace to get there.

Coimbra is a riverfront city in central Portugal and the country’s former capital. It’s home to a preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra. Built on the grounds of a former palace, the university is famed for its baroque library, the Biblioteca Joanina, and its 18th-century bell tower. In the city’s old town lies the 12th-century Romanesque cathedral Sé Velha.

Todays journey was productive and the longest I’ve hiked so far. I’m feeling good and no issues with blisters, so my plan to walk further seems to be working. Coimbra is a beautiful city and very historic.

Later this evening I met up with Solange at an Italian restaurant of her choosing. The food and the company was a nice end to a long day.

My thoughts: I’m excited to be getting closer to Porto. I’m proud I was able to go this longer distance with such rocky and steep terrains. I have a few cuts from the fall today but nothing to worry about. As always, I’m super grateful I’m here and I have the opportunity to walk through this beautiful country. I’m back on my feet. you haven’t seen the last of me!