Walking the Camino de Santiago

August 29

“It’s a new day
And the sky’s grey
But all I feel is sunshine on my face
If the cloud’s stay
And there’s still rain
To hell with what the weatherman might say
I’m still having my parade”- Matt Beilis

This morning the weather is overcast and chilly. My stay in Coimbra, however was very nice and the birthday dinner for Solange last night was awesome. I’m back on my own today. It was hard to get out of my comfy bed and get going this morning and I started a bit later than usual. The trail out of town ran along the rivers edge for quite a while. It is an awesome walking/running path designed for everyone in the city. This morning the air is cold. After walking for a few minutes in my short sleeved shirt, I decided I needed to put on my hoodie for a while. It was just a bit too chilly on my arms. That could come back to bite me when I get hot, but I’ll deal with that later.

Soon out of Coimbra the trail turned back toward the small rural towns and countryside I’ve gotten accustomed to seeing. Weaving in and out of towns and farmland seems to be the design of this trail.

The first town I hit today was Torre de Vilela. A small town of about 1200 people who are super proud that the Camino runs through their town. So much so that they have painted an amazing mural along the street for pilgrims as we walk by.

I left this morning without any breakfast or coffee, so I was hoping today would have some cafes open. I wasn’t disappointed, as the first cafe I saw was open! I went in and got myself a coffee and a pastry. The cafe also had a little fruit stand so I stocked up on a couple apples and peaches for later and threw them in my pack. As I sat down to enjoy my coffee, three other pilgrims strolled in at varying intervals also needing their morning coffees. Two gentlemen from Holland I had met briefly in Rabacal, and another from England. We all sat and chatted together a while as we enjoyed our morning breakfasts. It is nice to see others on the trail as we get closer to Porto. Eventually each of us took our turn saying goodbye to the others and heading out on the trail separately.

Todays path is fairly flat along the journey to the city of Mealhada. This made for a fairly easy walking and hiking day. That is, as long as I don’t trip and fall on my face again! The sun didn’t really come out much until later in the day either, so the hoodie was a smart move.

This wine region is known as the Bairrada region. This area was historically known for fights between Christians and Arabs, early in the formation of Portugal, when the capital of the country was Coimbra. Even then, the wine from this area was so well loved, the vineyards were off limits during any battles. Bairrada is a region known for varieties of high quality, such as Baga, in the red wines, and Bical, in the white wines.

Along with wine, the town of Mealhada is known for a specialty, leitão assado, a dish made from suckling pig. The pork is cooked in brick ovens that are fueled with readily available bark of the eucalyptus trees that have been planted in thick reforested areas nearby. As you walk into town, there is artwork of pigs everywhere representing the famous dish.

I saw the three guys I met earlier today again in the afternoon. We all gathered for lunch at a place along the main road that served hamburgers. Of course, we all got one! 😉

Later in the evening, I ate dinner at the restaurant that was attached to my accommodations. I did not have the suckling pig, but did have an awesome fish dish that I really enjoyed .

My thoughts: Today was a good day. The trail was not very difficult and that made for a pleasant and less strenuous walk. I feel like I need those in between the bigger ones. As always I’m very appreciative to be on this journey. I’m excited to get closer to Porto which will then start the true coastal route of this journey I’m on. Feeling blessed.